LEAK FROM PIPING ON AND NEAR THE INLET AND OUTLET: In warm or humid locations, condensation can accumulate and run down flue tubes, cold water supply pipe, and heater connections. If the supply water pressure is higher than the valve’s rating, a pressure reducing valve will be needed. The incoming water pressure should also be checked and compared with the valve’s rating. This condition is called thermal expansion. A closed system can cause pressure to increase in the system.
The relief valve relieves water slowly when actuating on pressure. TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE LEAKING: If the leakage is from temperature and pressure relief valve or its discharge pipe, it may represent relief valve activation. If the leakage cannot be stopped by the handwheel, replace the drain valve.
Once the temperature of the tank is above 110 oF, condensation should stop.ĭRAIN VALVE LEAKING: Check to see if the heater drain valve is closed tightly. Leak from gaskets for electric elements (electric models only)ĬONDENSATION: Condensation should only be noticeable after a long draw of hot water. Leak at gas valve threaded connection (gas models only) Leak from piping on and near the inlet and outlet Temperature and pressure relief valve leaking Water accumulating on the floor or in the drain pan is generally caused by one of the following conditions: The T&P could be subject to reduced effectiveness or failure. The ideal fix involves the use of a pressure reducing valve, if supply pressures are above 60 to 70 psi, and a properly sized expansion tank.ĭO NOT DEPEND ON THE T&P VALVE TO HANDLE THERMAL EXPANSION! The T&P valve, according to the makers of those valves, was designed as an emergency relief device only.
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How to install a pressure-reducing valve and expansion tank. These failures are not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty, so it is extremely important that everyone be aware of the causes, symptoms and solutions to thermal expansion in a closed water heating system. WARNING: Thermal expansion of water, if not compensated for in system design, will lead to the early failure of components. Air pressure will force this water out of the expansion tank into the supply once usage resumes. The expanded water is flowing back from the heater and into the pressurized storage bladder of the expansion tank. The pressure should increase only slightly then hold steady throughout the recovery cycle. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing the expansion tank. The expansion tank is installed between the PRV and the water heating system. The PRV is installed between the check valve and the water heating system. The valve will close once the pressure falls below the pressure setting of the valve. The temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P) or PRV should open and release water once the pressure reaches the maximum setting on the valve. In that case the pressure will increase slightly, hold steady for a short time and then rapidly increase.
A small amount of thermal expansion control may be built into the system because of trapped air pockets or a water hammer arrestor. If the system is closed, the pressure will start to climb steadily and rapidly. Turn the thermostat back up to its normal position, so the heater cycles on. Make sure that outside fixtures, if they are on the same system, are turned off too.Ĭheck the water pressure gauge, and turn the pointer so it lines up with the pressure indicating needle. Shut off the drain valve and make sure that no other fixture in the system, hot or cold, is open. Open a hot water tap and allow 15% to 20% of the tank’s volume to run out. Open the drain valve, so the gauge reads system pressure. Turn the heater thermostat all the way down, and install a water pressure gauge with dead hand on the drain valve. The water in a water heating system expands when it is heated and has a greater volume.įollow these easy steps to diagnose thermal expansion: The most common reason a T&P valve is dripping water is thermal expansion.
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